There’s a saying that goes: the journey is the reward. And while that may be true, a trip to Matlacha proves that the arrival can be exceedingly rewarding, too.
Quite likely the most mispronounced locale in Lee County, Matlacha is a sliver of an island that literally and figuratively bridges the mainland of Cape Coral to Pine Island. Phonetically it goes by Matt-Lah-Shay, although visually it’s a kaleidoscope of funky, colorful, delightful, playful and unforgettable people, places and things — with the emphasis on people.
Matlacha traces its history with sketchy detail. Its name is said to be derived from either the Seminole or Calusa Indians, and means either “big warrior” or “knee deep water.” Some references call it an island, while others label it a key (difference being, a key doesn’t possess a fresh water source). And stories of ghost butchers, circus freaks and drug smugglers only add to the legend.
But the fact is, Matlacha has evolved from its days as simply a thriving fishing community to a true tourism destination — fueled in large part by a creative collection of artists, galleries, boutiques and shoppes — each clearly making his or her look-at-me statement with one funky, colorfully painted building after another along this uniquely artsy, slow moving stretch of Pine Island Road that, if you blink more than once, you might miss.
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“Matlacha stands as another example of what makes Lee County such a great place to visit,” says Tamara Pigott, Executive Director of The Beaches of Fort Myers and Sanibel, the county’s destination marketing organization. “It’s a slice of the offbeat where artists, restaurateurs and retailers have created, in a way, a one-of-a-kind place that’s both old Florida and trippy. Plus the fishing is legendary. I love sharing it with others.”
To be sure, as you travel the roughly one mile of two lane road and drawbridge that divides Matlacha right down the middle, fishing remains a popular draw — with numerous boat rentals, a host of fishing cottages on the water’s edge and anglers aplenty on what’s nicknamed “the fishingest bridge in the world” — as does the dining of fish and other delights, at any number of watering holes including the famous Bert’s Bar.
Lisa Timcak is one who agrees that Matlacha’s diversity is its appeal. Owner of Island Visions Gallery with her husband Steve since 2009 (they also own two art galleries in downtown Fort Myers), Timcak notes that “Matlacha is a unique and vibrant community. We often hear people compare it to the Key West of years ago. It’s a small place that’s big with color, personality and heart — and it’s said that if you stand around too long you risk being painted with the vibrant hues we’re known for. If you want to get away from the norm, it’s this funny little place just not like anywhere else.” She smiles. “But shush, we kind of want to keep it that way.”
The United States Census Bureau defines Matlacha as a “census designated place” with a total population of approximately 700 people — living on a whopping two-tenths of a square mile. B.J. Hickey has owned Great Licks Ice Cream since he moved to Florida in 2006, and he feels the Matlacha vibe appeals to both residents and visitors. “We’re a funky, old Florida key with historically-designated buildings, an artsy community and a lot of laid back people,” he says. “Some folks are old time hippies, everybody knows everybody, and often we don’t even know each other’s last names. I’m just the ice cream man, and that’s cool.”
Twenty years ago, however, Matlacha was strictly a fishing village, until a ban on net fishing essentially put the fishing industry out of business. At about that time, a woman named Leoma Lovegrove and her husband were traveling to Boca Grande in search of a place to live — except they’d taken a wrong turn and found themselves the perfect place to call home.
Today, Leoma Lovegrove is a celebrated artist — with a gallery in Matlacha that generates 500 visitors a day, plus distribution in 125 Bealls stores — and is in effect the founder of the arts community that so very colorfully defines this slice of funky Florida.
“I think Matlacha is unique in the whole state,” she says. “It’s funky, with unexpected surprises at every turn. We have so many great shops and stops. You can buy art, go next door and pick up sandals, stop and have a beer, drop your dog off to be groomed, get your nails done, get a massage and go fishing, and a hundred more things. We’re a one stop shop for a day of entertainment like nowhere else in the world.”
By John Sprecher
Photography by John Sprecher and Lee County Visitor & Convention Bureau